This 1/10 scale 4WD nitro gas powered off-road buggy is of pivot ball suspension. Our 1/10 scale buggies are all strong in running on any rough off road surface. Many racers in China speak highly of our models and make use of our buggies to win at various race events. Please take a close look at our buggies.
Four wheel drive system
Front/rear differentials with good quality bevel gears as well as with 5 screws quite easy for maintenance.
6061/T6 solid anodized aluminium chassis
13.8g lightweight aluminium flywheel allows for quick engine response
Frequently Asked Questions about your Nitro Car Radio Controlled Car:
Q. Do I need anything else to run my Nitro model?
A. You will receive your model with the radio control (Transmitter / receiver) and servos fully installed. You will only therefore need to get 12 AA batteries (8 for the transmitter and 4 for the receiver in the Car), a rechargeable Glow Plug igniter and 15/16% Nitro fuel.
Q. How long will the fuel last?
A. The car will run for approx 10 – 15 minutes on a tank of fuel once run in and tuned correctly. You should be able to fill the tank about 10 – 15 times from a 1 litre fuel bottle.
Q. Are you required to have a licence to use a nitro Radio Controlled car?
A. No a licence is not required. Remember simply to use common sense around where you use them – away from places where you will disturb others, damage property or injure someone if you lost control.
Q. What age range are nitro radio controlled cars suitable for?
A. We recommend nitro radio controlled cars for children of 14 years and over. Younger children would probably be able to drive them but might struggle with the speed and reaction times required to control them. They are also likely to find it difficult to set up and maintain the cars.
Q. What kind of range does my nitro car have?
A. On average the car will have a range of 70-100 metres, however, we recommend that you complete a range check before use. Don't forget to fit the car antenna vertically with the supplied antenna pipe to get maximum range, even with the 2.4GHz short antenna's.
Q. How do I stop the engine from running?
A. If you cover the exhaust hole the engine will turn off a second or so later. Alternatively, pinch the inlet fuel pipe with your finger and thumb. The engine will stopp after 2-4 seconds.
Q. What fuel should I use?
A. Use a good branded fuel with a nitro content of 15/16% for breaking in and general use. Higher percentage fuel increases the speed of the model but will make the engine hotter and costs more which is why it should ideally be used only for racing. You can buy fuel from mechanic. Note, the higher the nitro content, the harder it is to start the engine.
Q. What is causing the hot engine to keep cutting out?
A. It is likely that this is caused by the fuel evaporating in the carburetor before reaching the engine. In order to prevent this the engine needs to run cooler.
There are 3 ways to achieve this:
· Make the mixture richer by winding out the low speed mixture screw 1/4 of a turn at a time and try again. Prime the engine before starting each time by putting your finger over the exhaust and pulling the cord 1-2 times.
· Use a fuel with a lower Nitro percentage on a hot humid day.
· Use a cooler Glow plug (they come in many different grades)
If the above don’t make any difference then try a different make of Nitro Fuel.
Q. What is and How to use a Glow Starter or Igniter?
A. A glow starter is a tool you will need to start the engine in your nitro car. Using simple finger pressure it locks on and off the glow pug in the cylinder head. Once the glow starter is attached to the glow plug (on the cylinder head of the engine) the wire coil on the side of the glow plug glows and ignites the fuel in the engine.
Q. How do you use a glow starter?
A. The first time you use a glow starter you will need to charge it. To charge it insert the nut shaped charging end into the locking socket of the glow starter (the same way as when starting the engine). Plug the charger into the wall socket to charge – the charging time is shown on the packaging.
Once charged, lock the glow starter onto the glow plug by placing it over it and adding gentle pressure with your palm and twist. You should feel the flow starter fixed onto the glow plug and the voltage meter should be registering a reading.
The engine is now ready to be started.
Q. The engine has started but the car is not moving – what is wrong?
A. There are a number of reasons why this is happening;
· On a 2 speed model the first gear (the bigger one) has a one-way bearing in the middle which sits on the gearbox and spins in one direction only. In dirty or cold conditions these one-way bearings can fail preventing the car from moving.
· The brake pads are too tight or have expanded after getting wet which has resulted in the brakes being engaged constantly.
· A grub screw from one of the drive cups has come loose which means that the drive cup will rotate but not turn the shaft.
· A part from inside the differentials has broken or come loose.
Maintenance Guide: Nitro RC Cars
This Maintenance Guide has been compiled to provide assistance with keeping your Nitro RC Car well maintained and to achieve great performance from it.
Keeping your RC Car clean is a good way of ensuring that any problems can be spotted early and dealt with. Additionally, whilst cleaning the car you can give it a quick once over to check that everything is in order. To clean your car use a large natural-hair bristle brush, available at hardware stores, to remove dust and dirt from the chassis and inside the body. To get rid of tyre and asphalt marks from the outside of the body use denatured alcohol or motor spray.
Differentials help the car stay on the correct path when turning by allowing the outside wheels to spin faster than the inside wheels.
For gear differentials ensure you check the area around the diff shafts for leaks after 20 – 25 runs. If grease is leaking take apart the diff and add more grease before reassembling.
On a car with ball differentials you will need to check the diffs every 5 runs. To do this hold the spur gear and turn the wheel slowly checking to see if the action is smooth or ‘gritty’. If the latter or the wheel is difficult to run the diff will need to be rebuilt. Repeat the technique for the other diff.
It is possible to reuse diff rings and thrust washers twice before replacing – just switch them over to the smooth side. You shouldn’t however use diff balls and thrust balls more than once and they should be replaced each time you rebuild a ball differential.
Shock absorbers let the tyres maintain contact with the racing surface by smoothing out irregularities in the track. If you dont race you should have a quick look at the shocks before you run the car at the start of the session. If you spot any leaks the shocks will need rebuilding. This must be done with brand new o rings.
Racers on the other hand should check the shocks before and after each run. Again if you spot any leaks you need to rebuild the Shocks. They are likely to need to be rebuilt every ten to fifteen runs. Again never use old o rings.
Drive Shafts transfer power from the engine to the wheels. Regardless of whether you race inside or outdoors they come under a lot of stress. They should be checked at the start before racing looking for bends in the shafts or wear on the ends and replace any that are damaged.
Drive Cups connect the drive shaft to the wheels and differentials and are held on by grub screws. You need to ensure that the screws are on tight using strong threadlock on any that are loose. A loose drive cup can cause damage to the differential or other components if left unattended.
Bushings are used to prevent direct contact between the various rotating parts on sport and budget kits. They do not require any specific maintenance other than to be kept clean and greased well when first installed.
Ball bearings are used on pro level kits in place of bushings and make the car faster overall. If the car has the standard shielded bearings you will simply need to brush them off every now and then. You can put a little bit of oil on the bearing and let it soak in.
The Gear Mesh is the relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear). If the Gear Mesh is too tight excess friction can cause the engine to work too hard and melt the spur gear. Alternatively, if it is too loose the pinion gear can strip the spur gear.
The easiest way to set a correct gear mesh on electric cars is to put a small piece of paper between the pinion and spur gears and tighten the motor to the motor mount. If you then remove the paper you will have the correct gear mesh. For Nitro cars use the same technique but fold the paper in two before inserting as they can get away with a slightly looser gear mesh.
It is important that every few runs the one way diff is taken out, the gear shafts are removed and the bearings inspected. If there isn’t any grease on the bearings they should be re-lubricated with blue capped grease – you only need to use an amount equal to that on the end of a pin. The lubrication of the bearings will prevent the differential from failing.